Showing posts with label vintage inspired fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage inspired fashion. Show all posts

Under the apple tree




Last week I picked up this little number in a vintage shop - though it is as vintage as me if not even less so. Still, I liked the easiness of the cotton fabric, the beautiful print in colors just right for me. 
I hadn't set out to get a fake kimono, but I did, and I'm loving it. Hope it bears no offense to the wearers of the real thing, for whom this type of garment, I understand, bears actual meaning in a cultural context. 
For me it's just about prancing around in the garden in a pretty robe. I find robes to be the perfect lounge wear; since I am anything but glamorous and manifest a large preference for spending long days in pyjamas, wrapping myself in a lovely robe is my best aim to tidiness.









Triangles and paprika


Here is the next one in the project pile, a blouse in paprika/rusty red and blue mohair. I have no idea what the original colour scheme was, I image something a lot tamer (pale yellow plus brown, or perhaps pale green plus dark green??), but I thought my choice was positively vintage, if  rather intense. 
It should suit an Autumn, but I must be careful with the blues. 
I long for blue, probably because I can't wear it much as most shades look disappointingly bad on me. Still, I thought I could risk an accent. In retrospect I am not 100% sure it was the right shade as the contrast seems particularly vivid, but I think it works overall. It kinda has to, now.


What about the comparison test? The original is crochet, but mothers talents and current eyesight don't go that far. Due to the texture of the mohair, my blouse looks bigger/heavier when in fact it is light as a feather. 
I would have like the blue triangles better defined and only stitched down on the one side, closer in that to the inspiration source, but for some reason mum decided to proceed otherwise.
They are not coming down either as much as in the 30's pic, this is partly to do with insufficient yarn (the blue being a remnant from another project) and partly with the fact that the waist line is really high on this blouse. I felt it was a bit too high to be correct as it sits right below the breasts, empire like, nearly mid way through the blouse. We usually encounter the opposite problem of not being able to place a waist high enough, but not this time :)


I wish I had taken pics without the belt for this to be more apparent - and to check if indeed it looks the way I see it in the mirror!. In any case, in order to correct what I believe to be a departure from the original style I used the belt - produced for a different item - and placed it slightly lower, at the base of the current waistline and where I think the waistline should be. It does the trick, but creates a bit more ruffle around.
The sleeves are slightly longer, and I had pulled them up to create puffiness around the upper arm, but they had slid down again by the time of taking the pics. All in all, it may not be perfect to a "t" but I am pleased. Hurray again to long distance knitting!


 Outfit:

30's inspired top, knitted in a blend of kid mohair and silk - 
the blue one is Debbie Bliss Angel in the shade 08 
(this was called anything from Denim to petrol, air force blue and soft navy !!!!)
70's wool pleat skirt, etsy;
70's rust suede shoes, bought at a vintage fair, because I love this shade 
and the style looks to me very 30's/40's.



Blackbird tie


This last Sunday I went to London to meet my friend. We were shopping for a bag for her when I came across this tie in a stall in the Spitalfields market. You may know already that I like a good tie therefore you won't be surprised by this latest instance of impulse shopping. 

Well, I don't know how anyone could resist a tie with what I initially thought to be a generic bird or even a crow print, and there are decidedly fewer arguments against blackbirds! To cut a long story short, I thought it was too cute to leave, even if it meant adding to the non vintage part of my wardrobe (which reminds me, one of these days I have to show you my 1920's stripey tie). 

You will have to excuse my bulky knot - I had to watch a You Tube tutorial even to produce this! The fact that the tie is woolen and very thick doesn't help either. It looks so big in some of the pics - almost like a scarf - I start wondering if it really was such a good idea after all...On the plus side, it does keep one warmer than the ordinary tie would :)...of course, if warmth was an issue one could wear an actual scarf to that purpose, hmm...

The rest of the outfit consists of a Seeberger wool cloche, vintage acorn pin, mother's old jumper  Hobbs wide leg trousers, modern brogues and my 16 year old chunky cardigan/coat. Mum knitted this for me when I was in high school and it's still going strong.


 photo by Gerd Rossen






Wishful stripe


From all the prints there may be, I like stripes best. Always have. They speak to me and make me happy. 
Ok, I know I look very mean just there, 50% covered in them, but I didn't say they make me a better person. Or fun, for that matter.
I like them regardless, and certainly enough to pick this shirt a while ago from ebay. A size too big didn't put me off, all the more roomy, and it's silk, not the dreaded polyester in which this 70's (?) stripe orgy often occurred. And it has allowed me to play at my favourite deco style outfits like no other. 
I have featured this before in another post, where the inspiration was Poirot-esque. But I return here to what really fires my imagination, images from a bunch over which I have drooled again and again:  ladies and gents, I give you the striped sporty fashions of the late 20's. Now this is the real deal!


 Minerva pattern from 1927

 
L'Officiel de la Mode, 1930


 L'Officiel de la Mode, 1928

L'Officiel de la Mode, 1928

Channeling Miss Hepburn

Katharine Hepburn, The Lake, 1933

The polo neck or turtleneck, paired with slacks, was a get up much favoured by Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo.
I am an admirer of both, and most of all, of the slick, casual style they sported with such aplomb.


Outfit:
 Jigsaw silk/angora polo neck;
Hobbs trousers; 
Vintage military map bag;
Alfred Sargeant shoes








Magenta and sea green


With the sudden resurgence of summer over here I jumped back into what has become for me a warm season staple: wide legged trousers with some blouse or another.Yep, I could do this forever. Lazy, yet happily so.
As for the colour combination, now I know why I needed that bag I left behind at the vintage shop...



Spring fashions



The spring is here, and so is this beautiful dress to go with it. There is a whole saga around this dress, and very emotionally charged too. I thought I'd share with you the sweet-bitter taste of this latest project that was to be the perfect dress...
Sure enough, every time I look at the picture that inspired it, I think that dress is perfect.


I spent months hunting knitting silk that wouldn't cost a fortune, would be the right thickness, quantity and color etc. The dress in the inspirational pic is knitted in 2 shades of green: with the eyes of my mind I had envisaged this coral and cream beauty...Coral proved impossible to get, so I settled for cream with olive green. But olive green proved elusive too, so I thought I'd try a brick shade instead. The accent color I purchased and had delivered straight at my mother's proved to be too thick, and she bought something else herself, going back to the initial olive green plan, but in a shade that I didn't get to check out. 
Enough to produce major anxiety: I guess I am a bit of a control freak in these matters, because I know there are a very limited number of projects left in the bag, and I really don't want things to go wrong, so I am trying very hard to give them the best chance of succeeding.


Anyway, that was that. The dress was completed, mother tried it on my sister, she came to the conclusion that several things didn't work, she unraveled most of it and did it again. Once finished and happy with the result, she hand washed it - the yarn instructions recommended hand washing - and the silk changed color, lengthened and became shiny! She ended up putting it in the washing machine not knowing what else to do, which interestingly enough restored the length and the matte finish, but the color change remained permanent.


Now the trouble was the accent color purchased didn't work anymore with the new color of the main dress, so she had to improvise again, adding a bit of black to it. Personally I don't see how that helps, but then I didn't see that yarn knitted without the black in it, so it could have very well been worse. Perhaps a different shade of green would have worked better with the new pink...But the bottom line is that instead of a cream dress with olive accents I now have a pink dress with a green and black mixture in the cuffs and so.
Now this wouldn't be too bad if the pink suited me. Sadly, it doesn't. I look washed out and sallow. It's a funny shade as well, looks cold in some lights, warm on others. The green in it helps a bit, but not a great deal. I was told the new combination is far more authentic looking. While I agree the pink is more vintage sympathetic, that alone doesn't make it look good on me.


As you probably can tell by now, the yarn itself is very strange. Rosario, made in Portugal, it is 100% silk according to the manufacturer. I don't know if by any chance someone has tried this yarn as well? The fiber is very short, porous, matte, and bits kept flaking of as it was knitted and also now during wear. I really don't know what kind of silk this is, what exactly it is made of. From close up the knit looks as if I had the dress for years and years and washed it again and again - basically worn.


On the bright side it does mold to the body shape and drape well. Bearing is mind this was knitted from a picture! at long distance, based on my measurements only, without a pattern, I believe this dress is very near perfection in terms of fit. Sorry for the even more pics than usual, they are for my mother to see. As I said the fit criteria is fully met, and the dress feels absolutely lovely on and wears beautifully - I do actually believe it's better in reality than in the pictures from this point of view.
The other day when I wore it I received a ton of compliments, people stopped me in the street to say what a fabulous dress it was, and that who made it was an artist. Mum was chuffed about this!
It is a fabulous dress indeed, I just wish I would make it better justice.



In terms of actual comparison with the original pic, again things are sadly not to my advantage. Most to do I believe with the body shape difference between me and the model. She is very wide in the shoulders and quite a bit taller and bigger judging by the size and number of those buttons. My narrow shoulders don't quite fit the bill so perhaps this "to be perfect" dress was style wise a crooked choice from my part from the very beginning.
The dress I have appears also less wide at the bottom, and the general shape  of the original one is more straight up and down - I see no reason for not obtaining that on my ruler (if pear) shaped body- here perhaps a closer effect would have been obtained with a heavier yarn ans a slightly more A shaped skirt? Or really is  it all dictated by those shoulders? 
Everything else is rather minor: it is a bit too long, my fault entirely, worried that it wouldn't come out too short I went the opposite way. The centre panel doesn't have the same length as in the pic, but within being thicker than the rest of the dress that's probably for the best. I would have like the cuffs wider, and the mid panel wider too at shoulder level, more in keeping with the original. The belt is not right either. To some extent these aspects are correctable, and to me also very important, because I think details like these bring authenticity, so getting them right is no small matter.


So there it is, totally grilled by me in a manner that makes me look completely ungrateful. I assure you that I am not, and I appreciate it for what is is, a beautiful dress in its own right, beautifully executed,  a great result obtained in difficult circumstances. Which is even more daunting, as it tells me the vision I had could be realized...but it wasn't realized now.







Plus fours



Well, kind of. See, I keep doing these posts where I trick you into improvised outfits that fake the real thing. All in the name of love for these fashions, so I hope you'll forgive me. And all because the real thing is not within reach. Isn't this the make do approach? 
Or just mad, out of boundaries... lust:), gone all wrong?...

What you see is fully modern apparel, consisting of an old suit, woolen tights and a shirt I borrowed from my husband. Shirt and tights are in fact a beautiful rust/brick colour, and the belt is burgundy, but all came out in a clashing of reds. Please ignore if you can that I look like I have something else in my trousers! Concentrate if you may on the inspiration behind this meager attempt: the fabulous sports suiting of the 20's and early 30's. That's where my heart was lost in drunken desire...

And that's something on the must make list to be handed to my designer friend, if she ever decides to do anything for me (we are in negotiations since November for  a couple of 30's repro skirts, but sadly nothing was produced yet). If you're out there, how can you not hear my lone, desperate cry?!...
















On the Nile...


...Nah, it's just the canal at Frampton on Severn. And my outfit today was a far cry from the look I was after, so the promised post on more Delauney inspiration will have to be postponed until I'd put a bit more thought into it. Will give it another try soon. In the meantime, this failed attempt gave me other ideas, and more of that terrible longing that one can only have for 30's resort wear...



Snowless skiing





One of the things that I wanted very badly this winter and which has eluded me so far is a vintage ski outfit. Some of you are lucky enough to posses such a thing, but the gods haven't smiled upon me yet. In fact I believe they pretty much spite me and refuse me the very things I want most. But they can't stop a girl from dreaming, and they certainly haven't stopped me putting together bizarre outfits to exhibit in the middle of the forest. I am sure many would agree it's the very place for them, too :). 

My silver hat pin was as close to authenticity as I was going to get. Well, since I decided it looked far more interesting to the side of the collar,  perhaps not. The rest is all modern with the exception of the messenger bag (to be listed in my etsy shop), the sunglasses (probably belonged to a die hard fan of Ozzy if not to the man himself) and the green jumper that was my mother's in the 70's or so and it's far too short for me in the sleeves so I tell everyone it really is a 3 quarter. 
It's a winner, isn't it?

Knit fashions - Part II


It was a sunny, beautiful day here today, and warm enough not to have to wear a coat on top of my dress.
I'll blame the silly posing on the euphoria caused by the nice, spring-like weather, after many a windy, gray and dreary day. 
So brace yourself for another picture heavy post (let's be honest, all of mine are) under the pretext of showing you further into my knitted wardrobe.


(Here I am actually clawing the bark as I'm sliding off this tree trunk)


Another of my mother's long distance creations, this dress was actually conceived by her with very little input from my part. It dates about 4 years back and the design wasn't based on anything in particular, I was simply inspired by corals, pinks and purples and wanted the color scheme to be like a sudden spring burst, something to make me smile. 
I also wanted a figure hugging, but not skin tight dress, with a simple line and finishing at knee length. 
Based on the above specifications, my mother knitted this.


I remember it was March when I received the dress in the post, and wore it straight away the very same day. It's been well loved ever since, and I tend to accessorize it with black since mother decided to finish the edges in black and also introduced the black midriff section.
The neck scarf is improvised by me and fixed in place with a little glass flower clip; the actual necklace of the dress is a simple v neck finished in black edging.
Somebody was saying the other day that the dress looks very 60's. Don't know about that, it was not made with any specific fashions in mind, but I can be blind when it comes to very personal items in my wardrobe, like this one. And while I am not very keen on the 60's, perhaps my mother was influenced by fashions from her youth. Is there anything MOD-ish about this at all? Or perhaps a slight hint of  Faye Dunaway in "Bonnie and Clyde", a film which looks more 60's than intended?...