Showing posts with label 1930's fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1930's fashion. Show all posts

Same dress, different woman


Speaking about putting a base piece to more uses, what do you think about this? It certainly responds to my need of change and "adventure", of starting from the same point but taking a side route and arriving to something altogether different. 
It also gives me that sense of satisfaction that you get when the things in your wardrobe just click together, like a puzzle that falls into place.
For all these reasons and more, I love this outfit. Not bad for a cheap dress that I picked for my shop - it never made it there, fits far too well in my wardrobe - and a cardigan that mum knitted out of remnants from a different project! 

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The forest green and wine red are yummy together, and I like the off center/asymmetric fastening illusion coming from the sides that overlap - they are not meant to, but since the cardi is quite roomy it allows me to do this. I have fastened it in place with pins for a style that is more 30's sympathetic.


I have accessorized with a 1930's Robin Hood style hat, a tiny treasure that comes in dark green velvet. It has a grosgrain bow that is in need of a trim, but even so, it has to be the star of this ensemble.


A Deco "hide" clutch in two tones of green, one of the favorites in my collection, and just the thing for this outfit!
Finally, another pair of Poetic Licence shoes, I am a fan of what they produced a few seasons ago.

Spring fashions



The spring is here, and so is this beautiful dress to go with it. There is a whole saga around this dress, and very emotionally charged too. I thought I'd share with you the sweet-bitter taste of this latest project that was to be the perfect dress...
Sure enough, every time I look at the picture that inspired it, I think that dress is perfect.


I spent months hunting knitting silk that wouldn't cost a fortune, would be the right thickness, quantity and color etc. The dress in the inspirational pic is knitted in 2 shades of green: with the eyes of my mind I had envisaged this coral and cream beauty...Coral proved impossible to get, so I settled for cream with olive green. But olive green proved elusive too, so I thought I'd try a brick shade instead. The accent color I purchased and had delivered straight at my mother's proved to be too thick, and she bought something else herself, going back to the initial olive green plan, but in a shade that I didn't get to check out. 
Enough to produce major anxiety: I guess I am a bit of a control freak in these matters, because I know there are a very limited number of projects left in the bag, and I really don't want things to go wrong, so I am trying very hard to give them the best chance of succeeding.


Anyway, that was that. The dress was completed, mother tried it on my sister, she came to the conclusion that several things didn't work, she unraveled most of it and did it again. Once finished and happy with the result, she hand washed it - the yarn instructions recommended hand washing - and the silk changed color, lengthened and became shiny! She ended up putting it in the washing machine not knowing what else to do, which interestingly enough restored the length and the matte finish, but the color change remained permanent.


Now the trouble was the accent color purchased didn't work anymore with the new color of the main dress, so she had to improvise again, adding a bit of black to it. Personally I don't see how that helps, but then I didn't see that yarn knitted without the black in it, so it could have very well been worse. Perhaps a different shade of green would have worked better with the new pink...But the bottom line is that instead of a cream dress with olive accents I now have a pink dress with a green and black mixture in the cuffs and so.
Now this wouldn't be too bad if the pink suited me. Sadly, it doesn't. I look washed out and sallow. It's a funny shade as well, looks cold in some lights, warm on others. The green in it helps a bit, but not a great deal. I was told the new combination is far more authentic looking. While I agree the pink is more vintage sympathetic, that alone doesn't make it look good on me.


As you probably can tell by now, the yarn itself is very strange. Rosario, made in Portugal, it is 100% silk according to the manufacturer. I don't know if by any chance someone has tried this yarn as well? The fiber is very short, porous, matte, and bits kept flaking of as it was knitted and also now during wear. I really don't know what kind of silk this is, what exactly it is made of. From close up the knit looks as if I had the dress for years and years and washed it again and again - basically worn.


On the bright side it does mold to the body shape and drape well. Bearing is mind this was knitted from a picture! at long distance, based on my measurements only, without a pattern, I believe this dress is very near perfection in terms of fit. Sorry for the even more pics than usual, they are for my mother to see. As I said the fit criteria is fully met, and the dress feels absolutely lovely on and wears beautifully - I do actually believe it's better in reality than in the pictures from this point of view.
The other day when I wore it I received a ton of compliments, people stopped me in the street to say what a fabulous dress it was, and that who made it was an artist. Mum was chuffed about this!
It is a fabulous dress indeed, I just wish I would make it better justice.



In terms of actual comparison with the original pic, again things are sadly not to my advantage. Most to do I believe with the body shape difference between me and the model. She is very wide in the shoulders and quite a bit taller and bigger judging by the size and number of those buttons. My narrow shoulders don't quite fit the bill so perhaps this "to be perfect" dress was style wise a crooked choice from my part from the very beginning.
The dress I have appears also less wide at the bottom, and the general shape  of the original one is more straight up and down - I see no reason for not obtaining that on my ruler (if pear) shaped body- here perhaps a closer effect would have been obtained with a heavier yarn ans a slightly more A shaped skirt? Or really is  it all dictated by those shoulders? 
Everything else is rather minor: it is a bit too long, my fault entirely, worried that it wouldn't come out too short I went the opposite way. The centre panel doesn't have the same length as in the pic, but within being thicker than the rest of the dress that's probably for the best. I would have like the cuffs wider, and the mid panel wider too at shoulder level, more in keeping with the original. The belt is not right either. To some extent these aspects are correctable, and to me also very important, because I think details like these bring authenticity, so getting them right is no small matter.


So there it is, totally grilled by me in a manner that makes me look completely ungrateful. I assure you that I am not, and I appreciate it for what is is, a beautiful dress in its own right, beautifully executed,  a great result obtained in difficult circumstances. Which is even more daunting, as it tells me the vision I had could be realized...but it wasn't realized now.







Plus fours



Well, kind of. See, I keep doing these posts where I trick you into improvised outfits that fake the real thing. All in the name of love for these fashions, so I hope you'll forgive me. And all because the real thing is not within reach. Isn't this the make do approach? 
Or just mad, out of boundaries... lust:), gone all wrong?...

What you see is fully modern apparel, consisting of an old suit, woolen tights and a shirt I borrowed from my husband. Shirt and tights are in fact a beautiful rust/brick colour, and the belt is burgundy, but all came out in a clashing of reds. Please ignore if you can that I look like I have something else in my trousers! Concentrate if you may on the inspiration behind this meager attempt: the fabulous sports suiting of the 20's and early 30's. That's where my heart was lost in drunken desire...

And that's something on the must make list to be handed to my designer friend, if she ever decides to do anything for me (we are in negotiations since November for  a couple of 30's repro skirts, but sadly nothing was produced yet). If you're out there, how can you not hear my lone, desperate cry?!...
















Should it stay or should it go?

how it looks on 

For this one, your verdict is a must, in more than one way. 
An interesting dress I think, in construction and details. Needless to say my husbands dislikes it and thinks it's unflattering on me. 
Of course, he's a man,  yet sometimes he is right. The question is: is he right in this instance?...
In terms of fit, the dress is roomy in the top/bust and very narrow on the hips. The waist is not fitted and looks odd without a belt. The sleeves have a "weird" but wonderful (to me) shape and are rather very long.
When I first put it on I thought :"nah...not for you, baby", then a few minutes later, after adding the belt (a modern one I had around), I totally warmed up to it. Of course the ribbon detail sewn into is a bit of a magnet and really makes the dress, together with the center panel, but does it do anything for me?! 
Over to you for the answer!

fabric close up

What is this fabric? It feels synthetic, as you can see it has a slight sheen in the light, it's quite warm on, medium weight, and has this raised grain which appears to be on both sides although more prominent on one side. Can you identify it? And if so, what type of cleaning is recommended? Also, can you recommend any books towards a crash course in fabrics? I''m getting every day more obsessed with accurately dating  my vintage, but that is simply not possible with my little knowledge of fabrics and fibers. Anything with pictured examples would do me a great deal of good, as I am a visual learner.

somewhat similar sleeve treatment

Speaking about dating vintage, which clearly is becoming compulsive in my case, I have researched the details of design in this dress, over a ten year span between 1928 and 1938, but with not great success. 
I couldn't find anything with similar ribbon detail sewn in, although I am sure I have seen it before?!
As for the sleeve detail, while I haven't necessarily found something identical, the above are close enough examples. It doesn't help a great deal with precise dating though. 
While the dress was bought as 30's/40's, I really don't believe this is a 40's creation. It's not 20's either, in spite of some details in the panels of the skirt to be found in 20's and early 30's dresses and skirts, and of the colored panel at the bust which fastens with metal poppers and is fashioned in a way not strange to 20's and earlier dresses.
But I do think this is a 30's dress through and through - except exactly from when? :)
I would be inclined to place it somewhere in the fist half of that decade, but is that correct?...
The shape seems pretty straight when hanging, not necessarily so once on, it really hugs the hips, while the waist looks somewhat loose and untidy without a belt. There are no side openings, so I expect a narrower waist would have made it impossible to put on. 
It has both machine and hand sewing, was it made once then altered to fit someone else? The hem is double, as if it's been taken up by simply folding it on itself. The front panel is backed in silk, while the rest of the lining present on the sleeves, a narrow portion on the upper back and a front panel on the skirt  - seems all synthetic, but I what sort of synthetic?...
Here are some details, maybe you can help.

detail inside and out

 Gosh I'm doing everybody's head again!  I just can help but be rather quite taken with this in spite of having  flaws (but I have too!:)). Anyway, will wait with very much interest your opinion!

By the river


One day, I promise you, I will take some beautiful photos here. There is a part of the river where the scenery is almost seaside-ish and reminds me of a scene in Poirot. Alas, that day hasn't come yet. In spite of beautiful light, the pics from that section were all terrible. I'm vain enough not to show you those, but believe me when I say I have more than enough material to put together a huge portfolio of ugly, weird, demented, or many a retarded faces - perhaps it could strike some luck in Hollywood, given how impressive my range is.
Either way, Poirot will have to wait. Perhaps I should concentrate on acquiring the proper envelope clutch in the meantime...



The camouflage outfit


Just a quickie today: another 30's inspired, rather than vintage, look. In fact, nothing is vintage except for the brown knitted blouse, made and worn by my mother in the 70's. The chunky oversized cardigan/ knitted coat is another of her knits, which she made 12 years ago or so for me. 
I wasn't entirely sure about this ensemble but I went out like that anyway. My husband kept telling me I looked like a war refugee... Not quite the effect I was after. What do you think?

The plaid skirt


Can't resist showing off one my newest purchases, a plaid skirt that arrived in the post this week.
The label is Boreva Sportswear, a company that activated in the US in the 40s (from my research) and also later (going by what others are saying). I was so intrigued by the skirt that I submitted pics to the knowledgeable ladies at the Fedora Lounge for advise as to its dating. They agreed that it is most likely a 50's skirt, which is very much in line with the dating of the seller herself. Apparently, had the skirt been any older than that, there would have been a lot more care put into matching the plaid, and perhaps creating an interesting effect such as bias cut for areas like the waist band.
The reason behind my enquiries was the design of  the skirt, so similar I thought to the ones in the pic bellow from a 30s magazine. Check it out! Isn't that amazing?


Anyhow, while slightly disappointed it has failed the examination by the experienced eye of the Fedora Lounge members, I know how difficult it is to actually come across 30's separates, so I hadn't raised my hopes too high. It just goes to show how muuuuuuuuuuch more I have yet to learn about vintage clothing before I will be able to date things with accuracy. Not having any sewing notions doesn't get you very far! Also, I could really do with some good books and catalogs in order to improve my knowledge, as I have been relying only on my ever growing on line image collection, which means the information I have is inaccurate to some extent, incomplete, and definitely unstructured.



Moving on, I will still try and incorporate this skirt in a 30's look. At the end of the day the fun comes from being creative with one's wardrobe rather than too corseted by rules and considerations of the kind: "well, if this doesn't have a 1935 label, tough, I will not have it!". And I've lent myself to far more scandalous fakery with my dickeys, or incorporating a lot more more recent vintage and for that matter modern clothing into my wardrobe to shy away from this skirt now :). 
Sadly, I don't seem to be very lucky with plaid. Not long ago I had to sell on a very pretty jacket  in similar colors (real 30's this time) because the sleeves were too short. I never seem to win these days, but I will not be beaten by plaid, do you hear me?!...

Ruffles, frills, and other frivolous treatments - Part III - The modesty panel

 


The modesty panels - also known as modesty inserts, faux camisoles, or dickeys - are pretty much forgotten items these days. Nevertheless they didn't fail to fire my imagination, easily captivated as I am by their bogus nature and their fatal mixture of beauty, fragility and ultimately...total uselessness...With the exception that they come in rather handy, even to those of us with less modesty to hide.


This first one is a double bluff: I may be using it as a camisole underneath my cardigan, but I'm pretty sure it started life as part of something with a lot more to show for itself, such as a beautiful evening dress, of which today there is only the top panel left. It makes me sad to think of it, the beauty and perfection that may have been and are now forever lost...


This second one features cream lace on top of a layer of pale pink silk with a very cute lace collar. Unfortunately the collar is quite damaged at the back and I am not quite sure how to repair it/reinforce it.


These last two I picked on Etsy and I love them. The first one is linen with cute mop buttons and necktie, it looks a bit like a fancy waistcoat except that of course, it is not.


This last one is very smooth and silky yet probably rayon, it hangs beautifully and has an attractive insert of lace that creates a diamond shaped pattern. More lace! Never can get enough of the thing, I'm afraid. 
Oops! It looks like I may just have, since I decided to wear it backwards in the bottom image. Oh, well, it's just what you do, isn't it?